The Folk Art Factory: Recessed zippers - how to take away the pain!

May I introduce the San Sebastian Shopper Tote!

Hi guys! I have been playing around with another pattern for my Etsy shop. This time it is the San Sebastian Shopper Tote and you can find it HERE.

That fabulous (and easy to construct) recessed zipper gives great security.

This one has a few zippers and I thought that it might be time for another masterclass! We have already looked at zipper box pockets and this bag has a few of those too. HERE is the tute to help you with those. Don't worry that I have referenced another pattern. You can use the same techniques.

Learning these skills will make you feel like a bag making boss!

A recessed zipper is great for added security and it also gives your bag a bit of structure at the top.

The zipper end can be tucked in or left out- either way, its extra length allows you to open the recessed zipper all the way.

The main thing is to get your zipper foot out for this one! The right tool for the job is really important and with a zipper foot, you can get in a lot tighter than with a normal presser foot. Most modern machines come with a zipper foot as a standard accessory so have a rummage in that bag of tricks that came with the machine.

The long zip means that the bag can be fully opened.

So to make a recessed zipper, we need a few things:
- your zipper (natch)
- the top panel
-the top panel interfacing (Style-vil by Vlieseline)
- the top panel lining
-the tab for the end of the zipper
You will also need the top inner trim and a piece of your lining so that I can show you how to put the zipper into the lining.

Never leave the details out! The delicate pink of the leather zipper pull echoes the pinks in the fabric.

The last three things on this list will be mentioned specifically in the pattern so cut them out and prepare them and meet me back here.

Right so you have the top panels interfaced with foam interfacing. They are then trimmed. The foam at the end of the zipper which is not the opening end is a bit bulky to fold over so I like to go in about 1/2" and trim that back further.

Being on the lookout for and getting rid of bulk is an important job in bag making.

This extra piece of overhang is then folded over, pressed and glued to keep it in place like this

Glue is your friend! I love Aleene's Tacky glue and I use it where stitching might add yet more bulk.

Prepare the zipper next.
The end tapes where the zipper opens will either look like this if you are using a 'normal' zipper...

You can use any sort of zip.

or this if you are using a zipper on a roll....

This is the sort that i have chosen for the bag. it looks like metal but behaves like plastic. Winning!

Whichever you have, you need to fold the zipper tape ends to the side as near to the zipper opening as you can like this and stitch them to hold them there

It looks and feels a bit awkward but trust me, this is hoe it looks. The excess will be trimmed away when we get to that bit.

One end of the recessed zipper (the opening end) is almost right up against the end of the panels and the other end runs off the end of the panels and ends in a tab. Folding the zipper tapes back like this means that you get a lovely clean end where the zipper opens.

Actually come in 1/4" from the end like this to allow for the seam allowance

That 1/4" is important for the finished effect.

I baste the zip in first to keep it in place because once the lining goes on to make the sandwich, it is very difficult to see if the zip has stayed put.

Then add the lining (right sides together) and sew up the short end, along the zipper

Your folded over zipper end tape will stick out like this.

Don't sew down the other short end just yet though. Just fold the lining up to match the glued outer end.

Those of you watching this carefully will see that my fold over is WAY more than the usual 1/4" seam allowance! That is because the lining usually stretches a bit as you sew. Don't worry too much (as long as it isn't excessive) and just fold the end to match the outer. The outer is the important one.

There will be a bit of bulk there on the corners so trim across being careful not to snick the stitches

Trim the zipper end off too where it sticks out at the side.

Turn the panel the right way out and press so that the edges are perfect.

Thanks to the bending over of the zipper tape end, this is what the recessed zipper should look like when you turn it out.

Then topstitch narrowly up the short side, along the zipper and then down the other short side.

Keep a hold on all of the layers as you topstitch so that there is no puckering.

The topstitching is what will close the flappy bits on the other end of the panel.

One side down and one to go!

You have made one side!!
Now repeat this on the other side and trim so that the whole shebang is as wide as the pattern directs.

Looking pretty good!

I like to baste the layers together too so that they are not too floppy. this makes it easier when you put the zipper together.

Now to apply the recessed zipper panel to the innards of the bag, take a top trim and your piece of lining and place them right sides together with one side of the zipper panel sandwiched in between

Basically act as though the zipper panel is not there and sew right along from beginning to end.

Sew right along trapping the zipper panel side in the seam

One side is done and as you can see, I have topstitched narrowly just above the seam. Topstitching is an important skill in bag making and it helps everything to stay put.

Repeat for the other side. You will now proceed with the lining as normal, sewing up the sides and base and leaving a turning gap in the base.

It looks like a hot mess at the moment but all is well and at this stage, you are ready to sew the sides of the lining following the pattern instructions.

Okay let's finish by putting the tab on the end of the zip. Take the tab and follow the pattern instructions to prepare it. Slip it over the end of the zipper and glue it in place.

The pattern will tell you the dimensions and what to do to make the tab.

You will find that a lot of glue is used in bag making. It is a super handy addition to your kit.

Stitch it on now being careful to avoid any metal teeth.